How To: Balancing The Lip Makeup

In this tutorial, we will explain the process and technique of balancing the lip makeup.


Greetings. I am here with a tutorial on balancing lip makeup.

After you apply your contour on the chin, you must apply a highlight there as well. Here we do not want to talk about the chin of course. After I applied the highlight on the chin, a line appears. I used a lighter color for you to see. Above this border is called the crescent of the chin. From the crescent on the chin to the middle of the lip where the lips part is the area that you should work on when you are doing balancing makeup for the lips. During this process, the size of the lower lip and the size of the area beneath the lip to the lip line that I just pointed out, above the highlight, must be equal.

Since the model I am working on has this balance already, I am going to apply the lipstick on her lip and not lower and there is no need to make the lip bigger. Therefore, I will not make it bigger and if I want to, I will do it only for a millimeter or two. Now I want to measure the balance for the upper lip. This starts below the nose, to the middle of the lips. You have to be able to use your eyes only for this process, but for the sake of this tutorial, I am going to draw the lines as well. One, two, three, four, and five. When I separate this area, two parts of it belongs to the lip. Meaning the size of the lip can equal only two parts of this classification. Three parts of the classification fall above the lip.

Therefore, the area above the lip should not be too long or too short. I used two parts of the classification for the lip and three parts for the area above the lip. Do not make the lip so big that it gets close to the nose, and do not make it so small that the area above the nose looks abnormal. There are many topics to cover when it comes to lip makeup. To make the lips larger you should apply a darker shade around the lips and make it lighter the more you move to the inner areas of the lips. This will make the lips look larger.

Whether you apply the lipstick to the area to the middle of the upper lip to make it look round or arched, depends on the type of the makeup. If you want to make the model’s face look thinner or bonier,
Then the middle of the upper lip must have a harder arch. If I make this same area round, it will make the face wider. This is one of the important points. Another important factor, which I get many questions about, is about the durability of the lipstick. I mixed these three colors. A dark purple, brown, and a little pink to get this color. You can use lighter colors to tone the inside of the lips and make it look lighter, or you could use a highlight you used on the face and apply it to the inner area of the lips.

Here I can use the light pink on the inner area of the lip or cream color. Although my model has a plump lower lip and there is no need to add volume. You can let the middle of the lip remain lighter, and then make the two areas on the side a little lighter. If your client has a flat or small upper lip, but the lower lip is big, you can highlight the inner area of the upper lip to add more volume to it. You should apply the same technique and color tones you use in your shadowing process, for the lips as well. The area of the lip liner is darker. Some people rather use lip liner pencils and some use palettes and brush. Both are good ways. After applying the lipstick, and when we are sure the colors are good, we can work on fixing the lipstick and working on the lip lines.

When I have the shape that I want, I will fix the lip a bit. Which means I will remove the excess oil from the lipstick. For this purpose, you could use baby powder. Throw some of the baby powder on the lip using the brush, but do not let the brush touch the lips. Use a wide brush that you use to apply powders to put some of the baby powder on the lip to remove the oil and fix the lipstick. Now I can reapply the lipstick again. Before reapplying the lipstick, I will use the light color that I used as the highlighter, to apply a thin line around the lip using a thin flat brush. I do not need to make this lip look bigger, but I will do this for this tutorial and explain the process.

Making this highlighted line around the lips makes it look neat, plump, and natural. Another method to add volume to the lips is to highlight the border around it. In newer methods such as strobing, which uses shiny material, we highlight around the lips first and then apply the lipstick. You can also use this method here and apply the highlight before applying the lipstick. This will make the lips look much better and more natural. You should apply the highlight to the lip line for the upper lip and the lower lip. Draw a thin line and make sure to fade it at the end so it does not look like a line.

For those who have a long space above their lips, you can only apply a thin, highlighted line around the lips. Nevertheless, for those with a short area above the lips, you should apply the highlight vertically to the middle of the upper lip as well. The highlight for this area should look like an inverted L. If your client does not have a plump or prominent area in the middle of the upper lip, you can use your contour to add a bit of dark shade in the middle of the upper lip to form the area and then highlight around it.

Fade the colors completely to make sure there are no lines between the shades. Another place you have to apply your contour is below the lower lip on the chin where you should apply the contour to make it look less visible and give the lower lip move volume. Make sure to tone the inside of the lips. As I told you, these areas should be lighter. Fade the highlights after application. After going through these steps and foundation for the makeup, I am going to apply the lipstick one more time especially around the lips. I will also use this opportunity to fade the highlights completely.

After the contour and highlight are done, you have to fix the makeup. When you want to fix the makeup, you also have to apply the fix to the lips. Therefore, this is the second time we are applying a fixing powder on the lips. Wipe the excess powder off the lips using your brush and apply the lipstick again. This is the third time you are applying your lipstick and this makes the lipstick durable and velvet-like. Some people rather have shiny lipstick. For these people, you can also apply a shine on top. I hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial.

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