In this tutorial, you can see a complete eyebrow hachure process, using micro-pigmentation. Before beginning, clean the area and design the model using a pen. Show the result to the client and get their approval. A micro-pigmentation process on natural eyebrows will take two to three sessions to complete. In the first session, the primary focus is on design, and on the two other sessions we can focus on coloring and pigmentation. Mrs. Nika Mahdavi, a pigmentation expert, provided this tutorial.
What you see here is a natural eyebrow, but we want to remodel it, based on the client’s request and the standards for eyebrow pigmentation
Before starting the process, we have to clean the area using a cotton swab smeared in suitable cleaning products. Based on what the client wants and the existing standards for eyebrowpigmentation, we’re going to apply the basic design, and if that was to the client’s liking, we will continue with the pigmentation process. The crown of the eyebrow that you see here has inclined hair, unlike most other eyebrows. The client would like to change the round look of the eyebrows. This is true for the crown and the eyebrows as a whole.
I will design a model and if they liked it, we can continue. The natural crown of the eyebrow is round and inclined. Based on the client’s preference, we’re going to give this eyebrow a rectangular look. After the design is completed and approved by the client, we will continue. You should always design the eyebrow before applying the pigmentation. To apply the pigmentation, we have to use the number five slope cartridge. This is because the client prefers small hachures, so they look more natural.
To design the model for our work, there are a few things we have to keep in mind. Paying attention to the standards of eyebrowdesign. There’s the fashion of the day which will affect the design, and then what the client wants. The character of the person is also very important. After designing the basic model, show the result to the client for their approval. These changes will affect how the person looks very much and sometimes it can be hard for the client. We make the changes to make the client look more beautiful. As we explained in other tutorials, it’s important to pay attention to hygienic standards. This is important for your own well-being, as well as the client's. For the purpose of this tutorial, we will not talk about these steps again. The tools must be sterilized and single use only where ever possible. After designing one eyebrow, show the result to the client to prevent prolonging the process. Make sure to show the client the result before continuing the process.
Eyebrow pigmentation for someone with natural eyebrows usually takes two to three sessions. During the first session, most of the focus is on designing the eyebrow and choosing a suitable color. Since at the first session we have no idea about how much pigmentation the skin will accept, during the second session we can see how the pigmentation has affected the skin. Whether they want it lighter or darker can be done by tweaking the pigmentationcolor during the second and third sessions. Therefore, the first session is usually mostly about designing the work and deciding on a color, and the rest of the sessions are for tweaking the color and completing the work.
It’s very important to be careful to design the second eyebrow exactly the same as the first one. The angles, the size of the crown and proportions with the arc of the eyebrow, and the distance between the crowns to the tail. You should check the eyebrows while the client is sitting up because the face looks slightly different when the client is lying on the table. After the design is complete, one of the most common complaints is about the thickness of the eyebrow. You have to keep in mind that the design usually looks a little thicker because it’s done using an eyebrow pen. After the designed is cleaned and a hachure is applied, the thickness will look normal. The design is finished and the model has accepted the design.
Based on the natural form of the client’s face, we have applied a standard design. Keep in mind that the fashion standards of the day can have an impact on the design. I’m not saying the design should be exactly according to fashion, but the clients usually want something relevant. Since my client prefers light brown colors for her eyebrows and her hair, I’m going to use a light brown pigmentationcolor. Besides the standards that you have to take into account, you also have to think about the grain of the eyebrow and apply the pigmentations accordingly. This will make the eyebrows look more natural.
People usually prefer their cosmetic works to look natural and subtle. This is also true for eyebrow pigmentations. You have to always pay attention to the natural order of hair growth. After the design is complete, you can apply the pigmentation and if the client was experiencing pain or irritation, which they usually do, you can apply anesthetics. How much pain the client experiences depends somewhat on their pain tolerance. After scratching the tissue using the cartridge, anesthetics take effect much faster.
Since we have already applied the basic design using the cartridge, we can clear the design and apply anesthetics. Give the client a few minutes for the anesthetic ointment to take effect. The pain the client experiences depends on their natural pain tolerance and their skin type. Smoother skins with closed pores are less affected by pain. Oily and very dry skins are usually more susceptible to pain. After applying the anesthetic, you can tell if the product has taken effect by looking at the area. If the product has taken full effect, around the area starts to look whiter. This is because of the epinephrine content of the anesthetic product. Two minutes is usually enough time for someone with scratches on their skin.
Keep in mind that this process shouldn’t be very painful, a little pain is natural, and you shouldn’t see bleeding in the area. This is because the area you should normally work on is around the Epidermis layer and not blood vessels or hair follicles. Bleeding can prevent pigmentation from taking effect. Be careful not to let the process lead to bleeding. Then there are two factors requiring your attention. One is not to go below the Epidermis, and the second in to prevent bleeding because it will affect your work. You also have to clean the anesthetic material before applying the pigmentation.
If you are going to re-apply your hachures, make sure to apply them on the exact same lines. Otherwise, it will ruin the delicate look of the work. Other than the natural type of skin, the pigmentationcolor is also very important in the result you get. The lighter the color you use, the shorter its lifespan. My model is a 24-year-old girl. This means the rate of molecular replacement is very high. The model has chosen a light color, and therefore she has to dye her eyebrows to with the same color to get the unified look. Since there’s oxidant in hair dye products, the pigmentation will disappear faster. The rate of renewal for eyebrowpigmentation is between six months to a year. The lifespan of a light pigmentation is definitely more close to six months than a year. It’s important for the client to know that based on their preference, the amount of work necessary during a restoration process can vary.
My client should be aware that based on her color of choice, a pigmentation will not be very effective in the first restoration process. Her young age, use of oxidant during coloring, and the light color used for pigmentation all reduce the lifespan of the pigmentation. She also has open pores that can reduce the lifespan of the work we are doing. We must always let the client be aware that based on the color they chose sixty to seventy percent of the pigmentation would disappear and let them know that if this happens, we will take care of them during a restoration process. The number of hachures you apply depends greatly on the volume of the hair. For eyebrows with little volume, you can use fewer hachures. My client’s eyebrows have a good density and hair stems are close to each other, therefore, it’s better to apply the hachures closer together.
What you do during a pigmentation is the process of adding a texture similar to natural hair. It’s the process of creating beauty. Always pay utmost attention to this process and do the work with attention to standards, because the client has to live with the results for a very long time and every time they look in the mirror they will have to see the work you’ve done on their eyebrows. The pigmentation at the end of the eyebrow should always be with fewer hachures compared to the rest.
My work is done here. I hope youhave enjoyed this tutorial.