Greetings. I am Bahri. I am a hair formula expert and instructor. Today I want to talk about the theoretical concepts of removing black or hard colors from hair. Hard colors include Henna, or other organic and plant-based colors, which are very hard to remove.

We know that it is very hard to remove these colors from the hair and the only products.
We can use to remove them are products called removers. Removers are material, which we use to remove dye from the hair. We use removers when we suspect that using bleaching products might damage the hair. In these circumstances, we use removers first to bleach the hair to a certain level where.
We have a honey or gold color and then use bleach. It is much easier to go from a honey or gold color to a platinum bleach than from dark color.

However, you can never promise the client that you can use a remover to reach something like platinum blond hair. Each hair has its own level of resistance to bleach and we might not be able to reach that level of bleach, which we have in mind. Removers do not damage the hair since they do not contain any ammonia. Removers will not affect natural hair and we can use a remover up to three times in one day on the client’s hair. However, after using the remover, if the client wants to have lighter hair, then we must use bleaching material.

Therefore, when a client comes to us, they expect three things. Sometimes you might have someone refer to you and ask you to change the color of their hair from henna color or black to brown without using any decoloring powders. In this case, when the client does not ask for bleach and just wants a simple dye, first, we use our remover product. Now depending on the level of lightness that we need to reach to dye the hair the way we like,
We might have to use the remover once, twice, or even three times. After using the remover, as many times as we need, we have to wash the hair with a shampoo four times.

By shampooing the hair four times, we remove any residue from the remover material that we previously used. It is just like when you use decoloring material and if you do not rinse the hair completely and have some of the material left in the hair, you will not be able to dye that part of the hair and for the same reason we have to make sure to remove all the dye removing material from the hair. Because of the chemical compound in the removing material, you have to make sure to clean the deeper layers of hair from this product as well. Otherwise, no matter what type of color you apply to the hair, you will always get a dark dye no matter how light the original dye is. To do this, you will have to wash the hair with a chemical shampoo also.

After the shampooing process, you will have to dye the hair with a color compatible with the level of lightness that you have. There is no way to know what color you can use on the hair before going through the previous steps and applying the remover and then shampooing the hair. This is why we have to choose the right color after we know the level of lightness for the hair. However, you will have to choose the dye one degree lighter. Meaning if you have a hair at level 6, then you will have to use a dye at level 7 because even though you have washed the hair, there is still the possibility that the color might turn a little darker.

The method I talked about until now is when the client wants a simplecolor, but sometimes the client might ask for a light color instead. In this case, we will need to decolor the hair because the client does not want a dark color anymore. First, we use a remover to reduce the color and then rinse the hair and use a decoloring powder. Here, we will not need to use a chemical shampoo since the decoloring powder is many times more powerful than a chemical shampoo. When decoloring the hair, you should always keep in mind that the hair will only tolerate the chemical material to a degree and after that, it will start to corrode and we should be careful not to let this happen. Before the hair reaches that point, we should wash the hair. Therefore, we will decolor the hair and use it as long as the hair can tolerate the process, and rinse the hair when we feel like we have reached a breaking point and then we can dye the hair depending on the level of bleach that we have reached.

However, here we do not need to choose the color one degree lighter since we have decolored the hair already. So after decoloring the hair, we wash the hair thoroughly and dye the hair based on the level of lightness or bleach we have reached. This is how you should work when the client wants to dye their hair light‌. However, sometimes, you might have people refer to you and ask for a highlight on their natural haircolor. First, you have to use a highlighting cap and take the hair hanging out from the cap and apply a remover to it. Next, rinse the hair, decolor it, and apply the dye based on the level of bleach that you have reached.

So first, we have to use the removing material on the hair, then shampoo the hair, rinse it, and then apply your dye similar to the highlights you always do. However, there are occasions when the client prefers not to use the material on his or her own hair, and use foil wraps and dye their hair. The dyeing process is very similar to the first method. Therefore, we apply a remover to the hair and then dye it. Now if the client prefers a cap, we pull the hair out of the cap and decolor it and if they want a foil wrap,
We put the hair in foil layers and highlight it this way.

However, if we want to highlight and dye the hair at the same time, first we have to apply a remover, and when the removing process is done, we do not apply the dye. Instead, we wrap them in foil layers and apply a dye. I hope you have enjoyed this item. I hope to see you all in our future classes. Goodbye.