How To: Hair Highlight Using Francesco Method

In this tutorial, we will tell you about a new hair highlighting method called the Francesco highlight. This video was provided by Matin Rouyan Beauty Institute.


Greetings. I’m Shadi Homayouni from Today I want to talk to you about highlighting and low lighting on hair with decoupage.

For this method, you first have to decoupage the hair completely. Decoupage starts at the back of the head. You should decoupage the hair batches one centimeter away from the root. The products you need for decoupage include decoloring powder and one and a half times the amount of oxidant and some water. The mixture must be diluted with water. If during a decoloring you bring the hair to a level 9 or 10, which is almost white, during decoupage, you bring the hair to a level 8. As I said, you have to add some water to the mixture.

After the mixture is ready, start applying it from the back of the head. The process is exactly like a hair dye. Separate thing batches, add the decoupage mixture, and make sure to start one centimeter away from the root. Give the hair ten to fifteen minutes if the hair is thick and then start adding the mixture to the roots. If the hair is thin, you don’t have to wait the allotted time, just start working on the roots, starting from the back, after you add the product across the whole hair. For the next process, you have to make a new mixture which will also take time.

I just want to point out that if hair is thick we can use oxidant number 2, and if the hair was very thick and was on a level three or four, you must start with an oxidant number 2 and then use oxidant number 3 during recharge.

This happens very rarely and if you can stick to oxidant number 2 and avoid using three, the hair will suffer much less damage. After adding the product to the roots and waiting for twenty minutes, when the root and the stem reach the same bleaching level of 8, you can rinse the hair using lukewarm water to remove the decoupage material from the hair completely.

After washing the client’s hair and removing the decoupage material completely, apply a keratin hair mask to the hair stem. Wait five minutes, then rinse the hair and dry it completely. Then use half a tube 6.1 and 7.1 colors mixed with oxidant number one. Start applying this mixture from the front of the hair starting at the root and ending at the stem. Wait twenty-five minutes, wash the hair again and start wrapping lowlights and highlights. For this procedure, you have to use two separate product container for your mix. One is used to mix the decoloring material and the other one to mix the lowlight dye that we intend to use.

For our lowlight dye, we have to use a level 6 color. As you well know, since we have performed decoupage and brought the hair from a level four to a level eight,
We have already removed red, yellow and orange from the hair. To prevent the hair from having too much green, we have to bring these colors back to the hair. To do this our color mixture must contain red, yellow, and cuprous colors, meaning it must contain gold, wine, and cuprous. This will prevent a green lowlight as a result. Add these to your mix, as well as some natural color. Add oxidant number one and mix thoroughly.

Our decoloring powder must be only mixed with an oxidant level one since the hair is already at a level eight and can’t take a more powerful oxidant. If you use a more potent oxidant, even with thick hair, you can be sure the hair will be seriously damaged. This is of crucial importance. Now we have two different containers with our products. Now we can start adding the lowlight to the hair.

Start at the back of the head and wrap your highlights and low lights. If you’re worried about confusing your highlights and lowlights, you can do the highlights first, and then move on to lowlights. Nevertheless, the correct way is to do them at the same time. You can use foam paper or Meche to add your low light after wrapping each highlight. Start in the back and continue until you reach the front of the hair. Wait twenty minutes and then check to hair to make sure that our decolored hair has reached a level ten, which means a very light yellow. When you’re sure the hair has reached the intended bleach, unwrap the foam paper, and rinse the hair thoroughly. At this point, the hair is ready for the dye. Apply your dye, wait for ten to fifteen minutes, and then wash the hair.

After rinsing the dye from the client’s hair, apply a keratin-rich hair mask to the bottom of the hair stem. Massage the hair for five minutes. After the allotted time has passed, rinse the hair thoroughly to wash the hair mask off, and then prepare the hair for brushing.

I hope you have enjoyed this video. Thank you.

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